Costume and Apparel
Ladies The silhouette of the 1920s was straight and angular and the boyish figure, with flat bosom and no hips, was the ideal. Waistlines dropped to the hip. In the last few years of the decade, skirts often used panels, drapes, and pointed segments to achieve uneven hemlines. This led to a lengthening of the hemline by decade's end.
Evening dresses were generally sleeveless, with deep V or U-shaped necklines. Decorations included beading, which sometimes covered an entire dress, as well as fringe and even feathers. As skirts became shorter, necklaces, particularly strings of pearls, became longer. Tan or flesh colored stockings were popular. Short hair was universally popular throughout the decade. Those who chose to retain their long hair wore it pulled back into deep waves over the ears. It was then coiled into a chignon or knot at the nape of the neck. Makeup was obvious, with red lips, powdered skin, and dark eyes. To approximate the style of the period, look for a low-waisted or straight dress such as a "tank" style or "slip" dress. Add a long rope necklace--preferably pearls. Modern character dance shoes with a small heel are appropriate for this period The stock market crash of 1929 and the ensuing recession created a need for less expensive garments without elaborate ornamentation. Designers of the period therefore relied on seam lines and darts as major forms of embellishment. The decade saw a continuation of the linear shape of the 1920s, but with a leaner, longer, more feminine silhouette. The waistline returned to its natural position and hemlines dropped. The overwhelming popularity of the movies in the 1930s helped perpetuate the ideals of “Hollywood glamour.” Women began looking to screen stars for inspiration in fashion, hairstyles, makeup, and even demeanor. The movies, and the glamorous lifestyle they portrayed, were a way for the public to escape the harsh realities of the Depression. Designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli incorporated concepts of Surrealist Art into fashion designs, offering fantastical creations that also provided a flight from reality. In the 1930s, the boyish look of the previous decade gave way to a more feminine silhouette, which emphasized the natural form of the woman's body. Bosom, waistline, and hips were clearly defined by the shape of the clothing. The waistline returned to its natural position. Evening dresses were long or ankle-length, molded onto the body by means of bias-cutting. The bias cut enabled fabric to fall into a smooth vertical drape and to cling subtly to the body. Such dresses followed the body to the hips, where they flared out to the hem. Other common characteristics of evening dresses included bare-backed gowns and halter-type bodices. Gowns were sleeveless or had full, cape-like, or puffed sleeves. Evening fabrics tended to be pale or white solids of silk or satin, and the backless evening gown was introduced at this time. French designer Madeleine Vionnet created the “Bias Cut”, which produced a “liquid” clinging effect on the body. In the early to mid-1930s, hair was still relatively short, usually waved softly, and with short, turned-up curls around the nape of the neck. Shoes featured low heels and rounded toes. Costume jewelry and fur added the final touch of fashionable glamor. Gents From the 1920s through the end of World War II, tailcoats were the preferred dress for the most formal occasions, and were worn with white waistcoat and tie. (Think of Fred Astaire.) Generally, evening wear consisted of the tuxedo in black or midnight blue. Tuxedos had either rolled collars faced in silk or notched collars. Single-breasted styles were preferred in the 1920s, double-breasted styles in the 1930s. From the late '20s on, some men substituted a cummerbund for the waistcoat. In the '30s and after, white dinner jackets were worn, especially in summer. Black ties were worn with tuxedos or dinner jackets. Almost any style tailcoat or tuxedo will do, but stay away from the very modern styles (such as those with stand-up collars) or colored tuxedos. You can also wear a white dinner jacket with black tie and black formal pants. Clothing can be rented, purchased or
constructed to suit your needs
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